set of threads

се́тка ж.

I [wɔːp] يَفْتِل، يَلْوي يُشَوِّه، يَتَصَرَّف بصورةٍ غَيْر طَبيعيَّه إنْفِتال، إعْوِجاج II [wɔːp] noun سَداة النَّسيج: خُويطُه الأساسيَّه الطولِيَّه

This is not a double cloth. It is a linen fabric with one set of warp threads and one set of weft threads. The Belfast Textile Testing House gives the opinion that " the term Double Damask is only applicable to goods counting not less than 170 threads per square inch when bleached, and woven on the 8-thread or finer satin twill principle in which the weft considerably exceeds the warp in closeness." The proportion is about two warp to three weft threads Double damasks commence with about 80 ends and 90 picks per inch, from 50's/70's lea yarns. In actual trade they often have 80 ends and 120 picks per inch, and increase in multiples of five threads per inch to about 110 ends and 170 picks. An exceedingly fine linen damask contains 120 ends and 188 picks per inch, equal to 314 threads per square inch.

The jacquard machine is an essential addition to looms intended for weaving ornamental designs that are beyond the scope of stave -work. The machine is made in many forms and sizes for different branches of the weaving industry, but its characteristic feature is that it furnishes the means whereby every individual thread in a design may weave differently from all the others. This permits the delineation of all forms and shapes and the fineness of the detail is only limited by the texture, e.g., the number of ends and picks per inch. The action of the jacquard machine is communicated to the warp threads through a system of cords known variously as the harness mounting and jacquard harness. Actually, loom harness ante-dated the jacquard machine by many centuries, and many draw loom harnesses were much more complicated than modern jacquard harnesses. An essential feature of a jacquard is that each hook in the machine can be lifted at will independently of the others. The selection of which hooks shall lift and which shall be left down is made by the designer, by painting marks on squared paper to indicate the hooks that must be lifted on each pick. In cutting the pattern cards, a hole is cut for every mark or filled square on the design paper, and a blank is left for every empty square on the paper. Assuming that each pattern card represents one pick of weft, when the card is pressed against the needles of the jacquard, the blanks push the unwanted needles and hooks out of the path of the lifting griffe; the holes allow the needles to pass through and thus remain stationary, so that the corresponding hooks remain in the path of the lifting griffe and cause the corresponding warp threads to be lifted. Jacquard: Single-lift, single-cylinder - In this machine there is only one griffe which lifts on every pick, and only one pattern cylinder, which strikes every pick. This restricts the speed at which the loom can be operated. Jacquard: Double-lift, single-cylinder - This is the machine in most common use for ordinary jacquard work. There are two lifting griffes and twice as many hooks as in a single-lift machine, but only the same number of needles and one card cylinder. The shed formed is of the semi-open type, which causes less movement of the warp threads, as any threads which require to be up for two or more picks in succession are arrested in their fall and taken up again. Double-lift jacquards give a greatly increased loom production as compared with single-lift machines, as they permit the speed of the loom to be increased to about 180 picks per minute for narrow looms, as compared with 120 to 140 picks per minute for single-lift jacquards. Jacquard: Double-lift, double-cylinder - In this machine there are two sets of hooks and needles, two lifting griffes and two card cylinders, odd picks in one set of cards and even picks in the other set. This permits maximum loom speed, it prolongs the life of the pattern cards, but is open to the serious drawback that spoiled cloth is caused whenever the two card cylinders get out of correct rotation. Jacquard: Cross Border - Fabrics with borders, such as tablecloths, bed quilts, etc., are woven with jacquards with two griffes, two sets of hooks and two card cylinders. The cards for weaving the border are laced together and weave on one cylinder, while the centre cards are on the other cylinder. The loom weaves at the speed of a single-cylinder, single-lift machine, and the change from the border to the centre cards can be made by hand or automatically

General term for processes after winding concerned in preparing weaver's and knitter's warps. Methods of warping vary according to (1) the yarns employed (2) whether they are sized or not, and (3) at what state sizing takes place. There are at least seven methods of warp preparation, e.g., beam warping, direct warping, mill warping on vertical mills, section warping on horizontal mills and in cheeses on section blocks, Scotch dresser sizing, Scotch warp dressing, and Yorkshire warp dressing. Beam Warping is the system in general use for making grey cotton goods. The beam warper comprises a creel for the supply ends, which may be on double-flanged bobbins, cones or cheeses, and a beaming head which comprises mechanism for mounting and rotating a warper's beam and means for winding the yarn from the creel supply on to the beam under suitable tension. The number of ends and length of warp on a back or warper's beam is related to what is required in the weaver's beam. Assuming the weaver's beams were required to have 2928 ends, 24's warp, and 8 cuts of 96 yards each, the back beams for a set might have 2928: 6 = 488 ends, and 2 X 6 X 8 X 96 = 9216 yards. On the slasher sizing machine six back beams would be run together, thereby producing 12 weaver's beams each containing 2928 ends 768 yards long. Warp Beaming Speeds - With the old type of warp beaming machine taking supply from unrolling double-flanged bobbins, the warping speed would be about 70 yards per minute. In modern beam warpers taking supply overend from cones, the warping speed is up to 250 yards per minute. With beam barrels of 4¹/₂-in. dia., and up to 500 yards per minute with barrels of 10-in. dia. Warp and Weft Knitted Fabrics - Warp knitted fabrics in which extra yarn is introduced in the form of weft threads which are laid in between the warp threads and their needles for the purpose of adding extra weight and for patterning purposes. Warp Loom Tapes - Narrow knitted fabrics usually less than one inch wide used for trimming garments. They are knitted on circular latch needle machines, but the tapes are flat. Direct Warping - A method used in making warps for towels, fustians, and other fabrics in which the total number of ends can be accommodated in one creel, say not more than 1,000 ends. The threads are run from the creel direct to the weaver's beam on a machine similar to that used in section beam warping. Mill Warping - There are two distinctly different methods of mill warping. On the vertical mill, which may be anything up to 20 yards in circumference, the number of ends in the complete warp is obtained by repeating the runs the required number of times, e.g., with 200 bobbins in the creel, 4 runs would give a warp of 800 ends. The length of the warp is determined by the number of revolutions made by the mill for each run. The horizontal mill is much used in Yorkshire for making woollen and worsted warps It is used to a small extent for cotton warps and is largely used for making silk and rayon warps. The mill or swift is usually about 5 yards in circumference. Its distinctive feature is the making of warps in sections which are wound on the mill in overlapping manner. The creel capacity varies from 250 to 600 ends, and with 500 ends in the creel a warp of 5,000 ends would require ten sections. Section Warping for Coloured Goods - This is a system of making coloured striped warps from hank-dyed and bleached yarns. The bobbins are creeled to pattern, one or more complete patterns to each section. Each section is the full length of the warp and is run on a small section block keywayed to fit a key on the shaft of the subsequent beaming machine where the sections are placed side by side and run on the weaver's beam. Scotch Dresser Sizing - There are two systems of warp preparation known as Scotch dressing. 1. Dresser sizing used for sizing warps for linen damasks, etc. Back beams are first made and placed in two beam creels, one on each side of the headstock. The threads from several back beams are collected in one sheet of yarn, sized by passage through a size-box, brushed by a revolving brush, dried by hot air, and passed vertically upwards where both sheets of warp threads are united and pass on to the weaver's beam in a single sheet. Scotch Warp Dressing - The other method of Scotch dressing is used in the preparation of coloured striped warps, usually from warp-dyed and bleached yarn. It consists in splitting off from ball warps previously dyed or bleached and sized, the number of ends of each colour required in the finished warp. Each group is then wound on separate flanged warpers' beams. These beams are placed in a creel and the ends drawn through a reed according to pattern, and wound finally on to the weavers' beams. Yorkshire Warp Dressing - This is a system used mostly in the preparation of coloured striped warps. It is also invaluable in preparing warps dyed and sized in warp form to prevent shadiness in the cloth. Four warps with the same number of ends in each are dyed the same colour, and in sleying, one end from each warp is put in each dent of the reed. Any tendency to shadiness arising from irregularity in dyeing is thereby effectively eliminated. In striped work the required ends are split off if necessary from a larger ball warp, sleyed to pattern in the reed, and then run under controlled tension on to the weaver's beam. The dresser uses a brush as long as the width of the warp to brush out entangled places where the threads have adhered together with size. Yorkshire dressing provides perfect warps with every thread in its proper place on the weaver's beam, no crossed or missing threads, and a minimum of knots.

A term applied to the number of threads in a given space, usually ¹/₄-in. or 1-in. Shippers and makers understand the term " 17 reed " to mean 64 ends per inch in the cloth, that is 4 down. When a cloth is indicated by a reed in the quarter-inch count it usually means that the number of threads per inch is 4 less than the reed number X by 4. If the ends per inch are stated, it means that number actual. ———————— A metal comb fixed in a frame; the closeness of its wires determines the fineness of a cloth; it keeps the warp threads spaced evenly, forms a guide for the back of the shuttle, and beats up the weft to the fell of the cloth. Wires are fixed in the baulks at the top and bottom and the number of dents in one inch determines the counts. These wires are set equi-distant by tarred wrapping cords. The counts of a reed are stamped on the binder rods at the end. If required two black wires are set exactly one inch apart near the middle of the reed, the number of dents between indicating the count of the reed.

נִירIV m. (v. preced.; cmp. jugum a. ζυγόν, v. Sm. Ant. s. v. Tela) cross-beam of the loom, also the cross-rod under the cross-beam (liciatorium) to which the ends of the leashes are fastened; trnsf. (mostly pl.) נִירִים, נִירִין the leashes or thrums to which the threads of the warp are fastened; also the warp. Gen. R. s. 94, v. פָּתַל. B. Kam. 119b אין לוקחין … ולא נ׳ you must not buy from the weaver remnants of woof or of warp threads. Kel. XXI, 1 הנוגע … בנ׳ he who touches the upper beam … or the rods, contrad. to קֵירוֹס.בית נ׳ that portion of the web produced by passing the spool with the woof across the warp, mesh, slip. Sabb.XIII, 2 (105a) העושה שני בתי נ׳ בנִירַיִּיםוכ׳ Ms. M. (ed. בנירין) he who starts a web by making two meshes, attaching them either to the cross-pieces or to the slips (קֵירוֹס). Ib. 105a ברוחב ג׳ בתי נ׳ within a distance of three meshes; (Tosef. ib. XII (XIII), 1 על ג׳ בתים). Y. ib. VII, 10c שני נ׳ בחף … בניר אחד two sets of warp threads fastened to one old border web (licium) or two borders fastened to one set of warp threads. Shek. VIII, 5 על ע״ב נ׳וכ׳ Ms. M. a. Ar. (ed. נימין; v. Rabb. D. S. a. l., p. לד, note) the curtain was woven on seventy-two leashes, and each twist of the warp (נִימָה) contained twenty four threads; Ḥull.90b; Tam.29b נימין; Num. R. s. 4 נימין; Tanḥ. Vayaḳh. 7 נימין; ed. Bub. 10 נירים.

נִירIV m. (v. preced.; cmp. jugum a. ζυγόν, v. Sm. Ant. s. v. Tela) cross-beam of the loom, also the cross-rod under the cross-beam (liciatorium) to which the ends of the leashes are fastened; trnsf. (mostly pl.) נִירִים, נִירִין the leashes or thrums to which the threads of the warp are fastened; also the warp. Gen. R. s. 94, v. פָּתַל. B. Kam. 119b אין לוקחין … ולא נ׳ you must not buy from the weaver remnants of woof or of warp threads. Kel. XXI, 1 הנוגע … בנ׳ he who touches the upper beam … or the rods, contrad. to קֵירוֹס.בית נ׳ that portion of the web produced by passing the spool with the woof across the warp, mesh, slip. Sabb.XIII, 2 (105a) העושה שני בתי נ׳ בנִירַיִּיםוכ׳ Ms. M. (ed. בנירין) he who starts a web by making two meshes, attaching them either to the cross-pieces or to the slips (קֵירוֹס). Ib. 105a ברוחב ג׳ בתי נ׳ within a distance of three meshes; (Tosef. ib. XII (XIII), 1 על ג׳ בתים). Y. ib. VII, 10c שני נ׳ בחף … בניר אחד two sets of warp threads fastened to one old border web (licium) or two borders fastened to one set of warp threads. Shek. VIII, 5 על ע״ב נ׳וכ׳ Ms. M. a. Ar. (ed. נימין; v. Rabb. D. S. a. l., p. לד, note) the curtain was woven on seventy-two leashes, and each twist of the warp (נִימָה) contained twenty four threads; Ḥull.90b; Tam.29b נימין; Num. R. s. 4 נימין; Tanḥ. Vayaḳh. 7 נימין; ed. Bub. 10 נירים.

The transferring of yam from warper's bobbins on to a large flanged beam in the form of a wide sheet. Used when preparing back beams for sizing on the slasher when several beams are run together. Each beam contains up to 500, or even more, threads with a length of 15,000 yards or more. If four beams are used of 500 threads then 4 X 500 = 2,000 threads or ends on the weaver's beam. This is termed a " set." Beam warping is also used for making beams of simple stripes in coloured work.

A term denoting 40 threads of warp drawn in 20 dents of the reed. A warp is said to consist of so many beers. The Bradford set system is based on the number of beers of 40 threads in 36-in. Dewsbury, Leeds, etc., count 38-ends to the beer.

A term denoting 40 threads of warp drawn in 20 dents of the reed. A warp is said to consist of so many beers. The Bradford set system is based on the number of beers of 40 threads in 36-in. Dewsbury, Leeds, etc., count 38-ends to the beer.

This term is applied to a heald of coarser set than those used for the warp threads, and the threads or warp simply pass between the wires and not through the eyes. This heald is used for rayon warps and allows the lease rods to be discarded. Manufacturers maintain that the warp breakages are greatly reduced by adopting this method.

Specially hard-twisted yams, containing from 30 to 70 turns per inch and produced in singles and doubled. The usual range is 40's to 100's single, 2/80's to 2/200's doubled. The yarns are used for voiles, crepe-de-Chines and fabrics where the aim is to produce crinkles through the strong tendency of the yarns to contract in length. In cotton, yams are made up to six- or nine-fold for special purposes. Crepe yarns are also produced in wool, silk and rayon. An official definition states: Silk, rayon, cotton or wool threads may be given a twist of a specific number of turns per inch. The thread contracts in the twisting, and the evenness of the twist, the type of twist, and the number of turns determines to a definite degree the character of the face of the texture for which the twisted yarn is used. The twist in the yam is set by a process of steaming. The twist co-incidently increases the strength of a thread to a limited extent. The twist may have a bearing upon the lustre of woven or knitted fabrics and upon the capacity of dye penetration and absorption. A crepe yarn may consist of a single thread twisted one way, or of several threads joined by throwing into one thread by a combination of twists.

This is a method of coloured warp preparation. Warps are prepared by the beam warper in the same way as for grey warps for slashing (tape sizing), the number of warp threads required being divided over a suitable number of back beams. These are then taken to a rebeaming machine, in which the threads are passed through a set of leasing healds and arranged in their proper order according to the pattern, and afterwards run on to the weaver's beam. When one beam has been filled a lease is taken by the healds and the yarn cut off and attached to another empty beam.